Shikanoshima Island: Ancient Poetry, Brutal Hills, and a Total Burnout Pottering Trip

 

Back in April, I had a blast cycling around Shikanoshima with my granddaughter.

Now that the mountains are starting to put on their autumn colors, I figured I’d better get back out there while the weather’s still prime!

I call it "cycling," but I’m not one of those hardcore roadies you see zooming past.

My style? A super chill "yuru-pota" (leisurely pedal).

I just wander through the three fishing ports, check out the ancient Manyoshu poetry stones tucked away in the villages, and cruise along the coast at my own pace. Total relaxation.

First Stop: Shikanoshima District

I noticed a new workspace making concrete artificial reefs.

It wasn't there before!

I couldn't help but wonder... when they sink these things, do they run some kind of "New Home Campaign" for the fish?

"Safe! Ideal for families! Premium ocean-view life! Apply within 30 minutes and get a special bonus...!" 🐟

One of the best things here is just stumbling upon ancient poetry stones in the most random spots.

Oh, and I saw a sign for a "Nursery for Baby Prawns and Crabs." How cute is that?

I pedaled through a narrow "green tunnel" of trees—the same one where the branches scraped my helmet last time—and soon enough, I could see Nokonoshima Island across the water.

Found another poetry stone right there!

The Tourist Spots & The "Wall"

You can't do Shikanoshima without stopping at Kin-in (Golden Seal) Park.

Honestly, I wasn't feeling the long stone staircase today, so I just soaked in the view of the Fukuoka skyline in the distance.

A bit further is the Mongol Mound, a memorial for the fallen soldiers of the Mongol invasions.

Right past that, where the road curves toward the ocean, yep—another poetry stone!





Then, I hit the Hiro District.

Just past the harbor, there’s this one infamous steep hill on the island loop.

Years ago, I used to pride myself on climbing it without ever putting my feet down.

But lately?

As soon as I see the sign for the local "Vacation" spot, my brain goes, "Yep, time for a break!" 

It’s basically a tradition now.

While munching on a CalorieMate and sipping my sports drink, I saw a guy around my age just... whoosh.

He flew up that hill like it was nothing. 

Serious respect.

The "Electric" Revelation

What goes up must come down!

Once I crested the hill, the view opened up, and I spotted another poetry stone on a hill.

The guy who passed me earlier was parked there.

Up close, I realized his bike was a sporty E-bike with thick tires. 

Aha! No wonder he was breezing through! 😂

Near the stone, I met a scholarly-looking gentleman.

I told him I was enjoying a tour of the ancient poetry stones, and he said, "Since you've come this far, you should definitely head up to the Shiomi Park Observatory."

I knew there was a famous stone up there, but I’d always thought, "No way, that's impossible on a bike." 

I’d intentionally avoided it, thinking it was a reckless mission for someone my age.

But then he told me, "There's a back way that's much easier!" 

He even guided me through the Katsuma district for a bit.

The Struggle is Real

I should have just said "Thanks!" and hopped back onto my usual flat route.

But... I had a moment of madness.

Watching him glide up that slope on his E-bike without breaking a sweat, I thought, "Maybe... just maybe I can do it too."

Narrator: He could not. 

After just 10 meters, reality hit me like a ton of bricks.

I was complaining to the yellow flowers on the roadside, but they didn't care. 

Still, my stubborn "I can do this!" switch flipped.



My legs started cramping almost immediately.

 

I looked up the hill, then back down. 

"If I quit now and coast down, I'll be at the bottom in 30 seconds... but that would be so frustrating!"

So, I started pushing the bike.

Hey, you actually move pretty fast on foot!

I’d pedal for 20 meters on the easiest gear, then push, then pedal... and finally, 

I saw the entrance to Shiomi Park.

WE MADE IT! 🎊

A Lesson in Character

The E-bike guy’s ride was parked at the top. I



I’d made it, barely. 

As I massaged my twitching legs and read the ancient poem on the stone, the word "rowing" in the text felt hilariously relatable.

Looking out at Uminonakamichi (the sandbar connecting us to the mainland), I realized I never would have reached this view without that man’s encouragement—even if I did have to walk half the way!

When he came back down, I was blown away.

He hadn't just been riding; he was volunteering.  He’d spent his time picking up cans and trash around the observatory.  He said he’d collected about 50 cans today.

The difference between him (doing good for the world) and me (just wandering around for a change of pace) was... well, let's just say I've got a lot of growing up to do!

Closing the Day

On the way down, I ran into some traffic.

There had been an accident, and an ambulance was there.

I hope the woman I saw resting on the rocks is okay.

To wrap up the trip, I visited my old favorite cafe, "Happy Mother." 

I had some delicious zenzai (sweet red bean soup) and a cup of coffee while catching up on life.

I realized then—it’s already been two years since my last visit.

Time flies when you're (slowly) pedaling!